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Fruit Tree Propagation
It is very easy to propagate any fruiting plant, if only you know which propagation technique works for which plant. Some plants need seed or root propagation, and some need grafting.
，  These trees propagated otherwise, will result in just waste of time, energy and effort. Fruit trees can be grown using different methods like planting seeds, rooting cutting, layering and grafting.
， Commercial propagation of fruit trees is carried out using a technique called tissue culture. We shall not get into the details of tissue culture and planting seeds, but concentrate more on the types of vegetative propagation. |
Different Propagation Methods for Fruiting Trees
These methods are simple and can be carried out at home too. These methods are simple variants of the commercial propagation of fruit trees. You can try these for small-scale or private propagation of trees. |
Rooting Cuttings
There are a few plants that can be grown by rooting their cuttings. These cuttings will soon develop roots and grow into a plant you find the leaves do not wilt and continue to grow, move the plant gradually into the sun.
， Few weeks later, when the roots are well established, and the plant is growing well, you can transplant it to a suitable area under the sun for further growth.
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Layering
Layering is another successful and simple technique for fruit tree propagation. In this method, There are two types of layering: ground layering and air layering. Let us take a look at both these methods.
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Air Layering
The most difficult form of layering is air layering. Not because it is difficult to carry out, but requires a lot of hard work and patience. The following instructions will prove to be useful:
， You need to select a healthy branch for propagation. From the tip of the branch, come down about 12 inches. Now, take a sharp knife and make two 1 ? inch parallel cuts. Add a bit of rooting hormone to the wound created. It will help enhance the rooting process.
， Take moist potting soil or sphagnum moss and cover it over the wound. To keep it in place, use a plastic wrap. This will help create an airtight pouch over the soil and branch. This is the hardest part, juggling soil, plastic and trying to tie it in place with rubber bands.
， After the plastic and soil or moss is in place,
cover it over with an aluminum foil. This foil will help prevent the sun's rays from reaching the wound and destroying the rooting hormones also preventing the area from getting too hot.
， l regularly to check if rooting has occurred. Once the roots are spotted (it may take months), you can cut off the new plant from the mother plant, just below the pouch. |
Grafting
There are different types of grafts used according to the procedure and shape of cut. However, basically, all these methods are just variations of the original grafting method. Some of the grafting methods for fruit trees are discussed below: |
Whip and Tongue Grafting
Also called bench grafting at times, is one of the most commonly used method of grafting,slide the scion over the rootstock such that the cambium of the rootstock touches the cambium of the scion at least on one side. Now, wrap the cut with a tape using a parafilm and cut a thin rubber band and wrap it over the graft.
The rubber band will pull the grafts together and allows better contact of the cambium tissues. The cambium tissue of both the scion and stock need to be in contact to allow the grafting to be a success. Do not expose the plant to too much sun, or else it will dry out completely. |
Budding
Budding is method that involves maximum cambium contact. There are three methods of budding that include chip budding, shield budding, forcing and patch budding. Let us take a look at a few of these methods: |
Chip Budding
Chip budding is a technique that helps a new tree grow from each bud on the scion wood. This method is not applicable for large, thick barked root-stocks. Take a tape and wrap it around the rootstock, just below the place you want to make the graft. Take a sharp knife and cut a V shape shallow notch into the bark of the rootstock.
Place the chip over the notch and make sure the cambium is in contact. Wrap the stock and scion with a parafilm wrap. Hold it in place using tight rubber band, cover the rootstock, but not the bud. |
T-Budding
Citrus trees are commonly propagated using the T-budding method. This method is carried out on actively growing plants where the bark easily separates from the wood. You need to take a sharp knife and make a vertical cut on the bark of the rootstock.
Above this vertical cut, you need to make a horizontal cut. This will form a T. Cut the scion in the same way as you did in the chip budding method. Here, you need to cut below the bud then remove the scion and place a second cut above the bud. Peel a bit of bark from the rootstock at the top of T. Now, slide the bud beneath the bark and tape it with a parafilm tape. DO not cover the bud in any way as it needs room to grow. Then, once the bud starts growing, you can cut the top of the rootstock and place the plant in an area receiving full sun. |
How to propagate trees from cuttings
Materials:
Root Hormone (I used powdered)
Healthy cuttings from a tree of your choice
Use vermiculite
White plastic trash bag
Step 1: Attain healthy cuttings from a healthy tree. Try to aim for 4-8" cuttings for small trees (such as dwarf fruit trees), Smaller trees will root faster.
Step 2: Fill the pot up withl, vermiculite and moisten the soil with a sprayer. Create 8" deep holes in the soil for the cuttings. I would recommend no more than four cuttings in a pot with a top diameter of 14".
Step 3: Remove the bark off of the bottom 1/3 of the cutting. Put the bark-less part of the cutting into a glass of water for five minutes. Then, dip the bark-less part of the cutting into the rooting hormone,
Step 4: Gently firm the avermiculite
round the cuttings, and mist them. Then, place the pot in the white, plastic bag, and tie the top. I found it works well to gently mist the inside of the plastic bag, as well. Place the pot in place OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT.
Step 5: Mist the cuttings EVERY DAY. Although it is tempting, do not remove the cuttings to check on them. Don't worry, they will let you know when their ready. After about a month, smaller trees will begin to grow small leaves and shoots.
It would be best to wait until the trees are big enough to survive the elements before you transplant them. Wait about three months after the first sign of growth to do this. |
More information please go to links. |
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